We have to go back to the island: Koh Kradan

A short trip on the long tail and we were dropped off on the beach of Kradan. After hoisting on our backpacks we headed down a dirt path that lead into the jungle towards Wallys resort, named paradise lost. As we journeyed down the path we could hear various creatures rustling into the undergrowth and away from the path as they heard us coming. Thinking of the potential snakes I took care to keep well to the middle of the road as we walked. Before to long we could hear generators in the distance and around the corner the path opened up onto a clearing with its own little village built into it. The area seemed deserted as we looked around trying to find or hosts. Eventually we found them tucked behind a building servicing the water filter. Wally didn't seem overly enthusiastic about being interrupted but we were shown around the available rooms and decided that we would try out a fan room due to the significant savings. Internet still being an issue we spoke with wally about the various options on the island and he kindly lent us a couple of his dongles to try out for reception at the beach. Packs now stored in or shack, we transferred our computer gear to a day bag and headed back down to the beach. There we found a resort that had wifi available, but that charged by the minute for non guests. We sat there for about two hours trying to get something more portable to work. Both of wallys dongles, and even my cell phone as a modem, but nothing was connecting reliably. Frustrated, we returned to lost paradise with little achieved. Dinner there was very good. Wally likes his food, and he feeds good food to his guests. I was impressed when he jokingly apologized for not having any hinekin or double brown available for for me, and the conversation developed into wallys tails of sailing with sir Peter blake, and former prime minister Jim Bolger ( who was apparently with his secretary at the time. A detail which wally did not elaborate upon, but one that he found quite amusing.) As dusk fell the whole clearing lit up a glorious golden yellow, which quickly faded as Melissa rushed to grab her camera.




With the light expelled and few options for entertainment in the middle of the jungle we retired to or shacks for the night and read Faust to each other in silly voices by bedside light.
The next day we resolved that it would be best if we spent the next night at the resort on the beach in order to obtain free wifi. After making or apologies to wally we again donned or packs and headed back down the path. At the same time we were also discussing or cash situation and became increasingly aware that we were desperately low on cash with no ATM on the island. It seemed that we might be heading home early. At the resort after exhausting all options of credit card, or internet payment, we eventually managed to convince the offenders to exchange a $100 American bill for Thai baht at an inflated exchange rate. We set Melissas computer downloading and finally got ready to do some exploring around the island. Now in or togs and jandals, we spent the day walking along white sandy beaches, trying out abandoned Hammocks, and taking photos.




That evening we trekked across to sunset beach to watch the sunset, but it turned out to be a bit of a fizzer. The beach itself was lovely, and reminded me somewhat of home, except for the incredible amount of rubbish lined its high tide mark. As I watched dome locals play soccer with a giant mass of polystyrene, I thought to myself that I would never let anyone get away with that in my own country. But I guess this is their country to pollute.




Back at the resort we had the best fish that we tried in Thailand for dinner. On or way back to our room I was stopped and offered a whiskey by the resort staff who were sitting around the table parking shots top celebrate the end of season. I joined the rounds and soon enough a couple of guitars made an appearance along with a set of bongos. I was obviously in for the long haul and Melissa went off to bed without me. The next morning I couldn't find my sunglasses which were in my pocket the night before.
I went back to the spot I had been stirring and there was nothing in the sand. And when i inquired the staff said " we saw them last night but we do not see them today" i took this to somehow mean that they had been swiped and feeling hurt, decided that we were leaving today. Inquiring about the prince of a boat we were greeted with confused time tables and seemingly exorbitant costs. Thinking that we were being had I resolved to make the trek back into wallys to see when he was next going back to the mainland. Walking through the jungle by myself on a mission to find an old man who lived virtually in isolation to see if we could hitch a ride on his boat, I felt like I was in an episode of lost or something. Then came the kicker.
I found wally sat in front of the TV, and as I approached I asked "high wally how are you doing?" his reply "oh me I'm fair. They got bin-laden"
"your joking!"
I couldn't believe it. We both stood there more or less in silence for about five minutes as the breaking news cycled through reports. Once I got the idea that the reporting wasn't going to stop any time soon I inquired about the boat. Wally told me that his boat wouldn't be going tomorrow as his driver would be busy running an illegal lottery, and that the price offered by the locals previously was a fair one. He himself was probably going to shut up shop today as there were no more guests. Back on the beach we arranged to leave that afternoon. While we waited one of the older and better English speaking staff members told used that we were welcome to longer or even come back layer and stay for free, but we would have to eat with them, like one of the family and food would be limited to whatever was available at the time. This sounded right up my alley, and was exactly the kind of thing that I have come here to experience but due to power being limited to two hours a day, there was no way that arrangement would work with Melissas work so we had to pass it up. The news about bin-laden was bubbling inside me and I just had to let someone know. Stupidity I asked the staff if they had heard the news and registered my story to them. The reactions were of defense and disbelief. Turned out that a number of the staff were Muslim, including out boat driver, who looked agitated as he excused himself to male a phone call. I started to get nervous about the whole thing and got dragged into a couple of political conversations with fellow tourists that I felt I should probably be avoiding. When the time came for or boat trip, our driver could be seen running up and down the beach trying to sober up after having a few to many whiskeys. This didn't help with my nerves to much, but we boarded anyway and headed back to the mainland without mishap.

The dawn of misadventure: Koh mook

it has been a while for reasons that will soon become apparent, so the details are getting a bit hazy, but I will do my best to recall. We woke up really early and said poor tender goodbyes to our new friend wan. The journey to the ferry was in the back of a truck and when we eventually got there they told us that the ferry was broken so we would have to take a long boat instead. They were obviously lying to us, but hey, what were we going to do? We boarded the vessel along with a rather full boatload of people, most of which were going on a snorkeling trip. Seating was tight and I eventually retreated to the rear of the boat to sit on our bags were I was offered a hammock instead. Which was a freaking fantastic way to travel, especially after the early morning. While everyone else moaned and grumbled about how we had been gyped I swung gently at the back of the boat with my hands behind my head and a smile on my face. There were considerable delays as we picked up even more passengers but eventually we arrived at our first destination, which was a snorkeling spot for the tour people. We were told that we could join in so, determined to make the best out of the situation, I changed into my togs and grabbed a snorkel. The water was crystal clear and the fish were plentiful. Just what we needed in the middle of a hot day. Next we dropped a lady off at an island that had stunningly clear Waters and a beautiful beach. Melissa and I considered jumping ship and finding accommodation there but unfortunately stayed our course. Next up was the emerald cave which is stunning. After negotiating a jelly fish just by the boat we swam through a cave into pitch black while the surging tide created all kinds of crazy noses. Once out the other side were were rewarded with an isolated beach with sheer cliffs surrounding it. There also seemed to be a dis proportionally large amount off butterflies in the area. Presumably because they were unable to escape.

Once back on the boat it was finally time for us to be dropped of at our destination. We motored around to the main bay and were dropped on the beach. The tide was out and as we traped along hundreds of crabs scurried out of our way faster then I have ever seen crabs move before. After walking along a deserted beach we finally came to the accommodation that we had found online. Their fees were very high so we walked and then taxied, all across the island to find a better deal. We did not find one that included the much needed wifi, so returned back with our tails between or legs. The local workers did not speak very good English and every time we asked a question with any kind of detail they all chimed "bot bot!" and handed us a dialing cell phone we eventually decifered it to mean "boss boss" and asked our questions to a man with very good English on the other end. The owner turned out to be a bit of a movie buff and a bit of a geek. Luckily I am quite fluent in geek so we got along just fine. He had an extensive collection of pirated movies and insisted that we take a selection with us to or rooms to watch for the night. Melissa was suffering from some acute neck pains and was taxied into the village to be massaged back to health by one of the old ladies there. We spent most of our days at Koh mook wandering along the beach with a poking sick in hand checking out the local sea shore wildlife. Amongst them being both the smallest and the fastest crabs that I have ever seen, and the only four legged star fish that I can remember coming across. We came across some rouge Thai kids playing on the beach and after practicing their English by saying hello to us they smashed a glass bottle in or direction as we walked away. I am not sure whether they were trying to show off or intimidate us. A far more endearing sight was a young boy sitting on a beached long tail boat making motor noises worth his mouth and pretending to steer the ship. I can't remember the last time I saw kids play like that back in new Zealand.

After two nights at a far to expensive guest house we decided it was time to move on. We were determined to find crystal clear Waters like those we had witnessed on or way to Koh mook and had read that Koh kradan was one of the nicest in the region. We also read many accounts of this mystical sounding expat named wally who had setup a resort in the middle of the jungle on Koh kradan. All accounts of the man were unfailingly positive, and I just had to meet him. Even the locals on Koh mook when we said we were going to kradan would reply "you are going to see Wally?". The only way to effectively communicate with Wally was by text message and after trying for the better part of a day we managed to get a message through that we were on our way. We jumped on the nearest long boat and we were on our way.

[Posted with iBlogger from my iPod touch]