Sunday, April 24, 2011

A slice of paradice: Koh phi phi

We woke up at abut 11:00 and hurriedly showered and packed our things taking care not to leave anything behind. We were out in time for the prescribed 12 checkout, and sat down with our bags at a caffee next door to our pick up spot and fed ourselves a Thai breakfast. No sooner had we finished our meals that our transport turned up and we quickly loaded all of our bags into the back and headed off towards our destination. There were a number of stops along the way to pick up fellow travelers and I got talking to a group of Malasians that were on holiday and also headed to Koh Phi phi. I discussed our plans with them and they suggested that we would be best off heading inland soon after koh lanta and traveling to Kuala lumpa by bus. I took note of this option and continued to scratch their brains for recommended destinations once we reached Malaysia. Once we reached the dock it was a short wait before we headed off on the ferry. I took the opportunity to write a few notes in my private journal and soon we were greeted by the site of Koh Phi phi. I noted that it looked alot like the island from L O S T and took in the dense green bush and the crystal clear blue waters as we motored into the dock. This truely looked like an island paradise. As we disembarked from the ferry and were greeted by a torrent of trolly pushers from various resorts waiting to take the respective punters luggage and show them to their rooms. After considerable to-ing and fro-ing we discovered that we had no such trolly man waiting for us, as we had only booked online this morning. To make maters worse our resort was one of the furthest from the dock on the island and it was about a 20 minutes walk away durring the hottest time of the day . Oh and did I mention that the island had no taxis? Transport is limited to foot, and a few bicycles. While I was in a good disposition and determined to take the challenge on in good spirits, (besides, what other choice did we have?) Melissa was not so much. There was allot of grumping and grumbling as we navigated the maze of streets towards our destination. When we finally got there it was instantly worth all the effort. Our resort was nestled in the side of a hill backed by the native island forest, and it had a pool.



We wasted no time securing our gear in our bungalow, donned our togs and headed for the pool. There we were greeted by a grinning Thai barman named "Bee" who was more then happy for us to enjoy a few beers while we swam. Finaly relaxed we started to drift into the experience of the phi phi life style. A few beers into it we were joined by a couple of guys from switzerland and got talking on topics varying from business management to the subtitles of the Thai language. After I turned down his offer to eat a cicada that he had caught Bee called me over and started to pour us both a shot. One for me and one for him. I don't know what was in it but he lit it on fire and we consumed it through a straw while it continued to burn. The effect was similar to what we would call a backdraft in new zealand. Bee informed me that the shot was called a B52 Blue, and that it was his favourite. It sure did the trick. I returned to the pool for a few more beers and as darkness fell we saw what looked like large moths darting around the light beside the pool. Upon further enquiry I found that they were actually bats feeding off the insects that had gathered around the light. They made short work of them and they soon moved on. Bee joined us all in the pool, and started telling us about his life. He told us that he had been a Buddhist monk for one and a half years, and while he was there he worked all day in silence and was allowed to speak once a day when all the monks met to talk about what insights they had gathered. He also said that for two months he had lived off only one bowl of rice a day and that the purpose of this exercise was to understand how little he needed so that if he ever came across someone else who was in need he could give to them knowing that he could survive. His father had become a monk forever, and he himself would return to monk hood in six months for an unknown period. I admired his dedication. By now the swedes had already headed down to the beach so Melissa and I got changed and headed down into the maze of stalls and restaurants. We had dinner at a bar that sported a moi thai boxing ring in its centre. The signs being carried around by the staff indicated that if you volunteered to fight you would recieve a free Bucket of piss for your troubles. I considered giving it a go (so that I would have something interesting to write about) But Melissa convinced me that I had just had to much to drink and that it was not worth it. After our delicious dinners we continued our way around the maze in search of a bar that had advertised a full moon party that night promising a free bucket and BBQ on entry. After wandering around lost for at least an hour we discovered that it was on the other side of the island, not to far from our resort. We eventually found our way and stumbled along the beachfront amidst dazzling neon lights, fire performers, and massive sound systems. We brought ourselves a Bucket each (two for one) and caught up with our Swedish friends.



They were feeling a bit had it as they had apparently burnt thier wicks at both ends the previous night so they retired while their girlfriends stayed. After a bucket primer we were well and truly ready to dance. We painted ourselves up with the freely provided neon face paint and proceeded to dance the night away in the idealistic setting that seemed more like something off an TV advertisement than reality.



At 3 am the main party bars all shut off their sound systems and we retreated to one of the chill out beach bars closer to our resort. The beach party atmosphere had been to much for me, and I had been looking for a djembe to play all night long. When I inquired at the chill-out bar the owner confirmed that there was no djembe on the island, so I instead requested a pot which he allowed me to play for a couple of minutes, before he told me that I was welcome to come back and play if I brought my djembe with me. I got talking to some of the people at the bar, a mother daughter couple that were traveling around the world together at the Mothers expense. I told the daughter that I hoped she appreciated it which prompted approving looks and gestures that I should be listened to from her mother. We got talking about education in Florida and the way that different generations were responding to technology when we were cut short by Melissa demanding that we go home. She was jealous and percieved that I had been flirting. We had a heated discussion on the way home and ended up wandering our separate ways while negotiating the labyrinth home. We were both drunk and hopelessly lost and crossed paths a number of times as we tried in vein to find our way back to the resort. After quite some time we reluctantly agreed that we needed to work together to figure out our way home, and after quite some more time, we arrived back at our resort. Once Melissa was settled into our room I headed back out to see what was going on in the lobby of the resort, It turned out that the workers were having a game of poker, and intrigued I politely asked if I could watch, I went over to Bee to see if he could help me understand the rules, but it was beyond me in the state I was in. Then all of a sudden everyone flew into action. The game was packed up and the players instantly dispursed. I was left on my own. Somewhat confused I made my way back up the stairs to our resort where I crossed paths with one of the kittens that hung around the resort.
just the thing to get me back in Melissas good books I thought. I scooped up the kitten and carried it to our room and offered it to Melissa. It worked a treat. As much as she wanted to stay mad at me, she was unable to resist the calming allure of the a fluffy little kitten.



The Next morning while I was playing with the kitten and nursing a hangover, The fluffy little bundle of cuteness sneezed in my face and a little of the discharge got in my mouth. In that instant all of sudden the idea of bring the kitten into our abode seemed like maybe not so great a decision. For the next two days I nursed a terrible hangover combined with mild diorea while intermittently researching diseases potentially carried by cats in Thailand.

When I eventually recovered Melissa had completed most of the work that she needed to get done so we went and booked a half day sight seeing trip on a longtail boat. at 250B each including a free bucket we think we got a bargain! The first stop was Monkey beach where the monkeys looked like they were a little over harassed and maybe sick of being pestered by tourists all day long.



After that we stopped off at a bay for a little cliff jumping before heading off to a swimming area in an absolutely stunning setting.




Next it was off to a snorkeling area where we saw long toms, angel fish, parrot fish, a moray eel, and a myriad of others that I could not name. 40 minutes later it was a small trek through what looked like pirate country to Maya bay which is famous for being the shooting location for some of the movie "The Beach" before heading home to watch the sun set on the boat and enjoy a bucket while the Thai skipper sung us a song.



based on my conversations with them this is what I think they could have been singing

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